How to Design a Decorative Vignette

Decorative vignettes are lovely displays of treasured objects found on console tables, end tables and nestled on shelves. These arrangements add detail to your home's decor and a personal touch to your rooms. Designing a vignette to compliment your space takes nothing more than a little time and thought. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Gather together your accessories, trinkets and treasures. Set them out on a large table so you can see them all at one time.

2

Sort through the items, grouping like items together. Put all your candles and candleholders together, all your vases together, all your ceramic figurines together, and continue on until all the objects on the table are divided into groups.

3

Within each group, sort the items by color, shape or size. Your criterion is to arrange each group so the items relate to each other within the group.

4

A rule of thumb for vignettes of like items is to use 3 items of different colors and heights, or 3 items with different shapes. For example, if you want to create a vignette using candles, use 3 candles, each of a different color and height, but of the same shape. For something like vases, you may to use three different shapes but keep the height and color similar.

5

Choose three items from any group and arrange them on the table or shelf you are going to use for the display. This is the simplest kind of vignette and can be effective in a modern design scheme.

6

Expand on that vignette. Go back to your groups and choose another item from another group that will compliment the existing vignette. For example, if you chose vases, a bowl of similar colors and material may blend well. Place this item with your vignette.

7

Build on your vignette in this way until you have between 5 and 7 items. The key to a visually pleasing vignette is the relationships between objects. Use color, shape and height for visual keys. Keep the materials similar, but not necessarily the same.

8

The successful vignette will have 3 core items, and 2 to 4 complimentary items. The 3 core items need not be centered, but should be the focal point, with the other items acting as accents.

9

Store the remaining items, keeping the groupings intact. When you want to design a new vignette, youll be able to do so more quickly.

How to Make End Tables

End tables made from recycled materials---such as old wooden windows---make for a beautiful statement in any room. Not only are these end tables easy to make, they cost much less than new end tables and you are using salvaged material for an eco-friendly design. Save the planet while saving money; making these end tables is a win-win situation. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Find two old windows that are properly sized for your end tables. You can find old wooden windows waiting to be repurposed at your local architectural salvage yard or antique store. Garage sales are also great resources for discarded windows. The legs for your end tables may also be recycled from old tables or purchased new at your local home improvement supply store.

2

Sand the wooden parts of your windows with a medium-grade sandpaper. Wear gloves as you sand to protect your hands from paint and wood slivers. Most old windows have already been painted, making repainting the simplest option. If you prefer to stain the windows for your end tables, you need to sand them all the way down to the bare wood. Remove all of the sanding debris with a damp cloth. Anything you leave on the wood will be part of the table's finish.

3

Tape all of the glass sections with painter's tape around the perimeter, where the glass meets the wood. You could also use masking tape, but painter's tape removes easier. Make sure you do not tape any part of the wood that will be painted or stained.

4

Apply the primer and paint or stain according to the manufacturer's directions. Apply as many or as few coats as you like. Remove the tape and let the windows dry. You may choose to leave your windows shabby chic with the paint partially peeled away. In this case, lightly sand the surface with light-grade sandpaper to remove any roughness. Apply a coat of polyurethane to protect the end table from moisture and stains.

5

Finish the end table legs the same as the windows if they are salvaged. New legs will need to be primed before you paint them.

6

Attach the table legs to each corner of each window. You can screw the legs on with wood screws or you can use a strong adhesive like Liquid Nail.

How to Build a Custom Table Booth for Your Kitchen

Table booths make an excellent kitchen piece, as they are utterly functional and give the kitchen a fun and unique feeling. Since booths provide such flexible seating, having one in your kitchen is a good way to make it more accommodating and comfortable to guests. Building a booth requires just basic materials, and can be adjusted as desired for additions to comfort, size and overall style. Woodworking experience is helpful for making the project go smoothly, but not required. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Lay out two 24-inch 2-by-4 boards with their larger surfaces on the ground, parallel to each other and 17 inches apart. Put two more of these boards on top of them, perpendicular so they make a square frame, 24 inches to the side. Drill two holes in each corner and then attach the boards together by drilling 2 1/2-inch wood screws in each hole. Repeat to build another square wood frame.

2

Stand the two wood frames, which are the leg supports, upright and space them 2 feet from each other and parallel. Lay out six 36-inch 2-by-4s across the two leg supports, evenly spaced front to back and side to side. Keep the front and rear 2-by-4 even with the outside surfaces of the leg supports. Drill two holes through each long board, or seat board, and into each leg support. Attach them together with 2 1/2-inch wood screws. Repeat all previous work to create another bench.

3

Position a 3/4-by-36-by-36-inch sheet of plywood vertically behind each bench. Have an assistant hold them in place and drill 2 1/2-inch wood screws through the back of the plywood and into the seat boards and the leg supports, spacing the screws every 12 inches.

4

Set the benches on their sides, facing each other. Suspend two 60-inch 2-by-4s against the leg supports of the benches. Slide the benches back to the edge of the long board. Screw the long boards to the benches by drilling four screws through the long board and into each leg support.

5

Position two 36-inch 2-by-4 boards with their small ends against a long board directly between the benches, spaced about 8 inches apart. Hold the boards parallel to each other with the help of an assistant, so that their edges are even with the edges of the long board, but they are perpendicular. These will be the supports of the table. Drill two holes through the long board into the end of each table support. Attach with 2 1/2-inch wood screws. Repeat to add two identical boards on the other long board.

6

Set a 3/4-by-24-by-36-inch plywood board evenly on top of the four table supports. Drill two holes down through the plywood into each table support. Attach in place using 2 1/2-inch wood screws.

Living Room Interior Design Ideas With Dining Table

If you live in a small house or apartment you may need to think about multifunctional rooms, such as combined living and dining rooms. Incorporating a dining table into your living room can be a design challenge. Choose tables that can serve as multipurpose pieces, such as coffee tables or sofa tables that can expand to accommodate dinner guests. When planning your living-and-dining room, choose pieces that are compatible in style to achieve a cohesive look. Does this Spark an idea?

Adjustable-height Coffee Tables

One way to incorporate a dining table into your living room is with an adjustable-height coffee table. Adjustable-height coffee tables are often made of wood composite or glass, and some have storage underneath. You can raise the table to function as a dining table, and lower it when you want to use it as a coffee table. Lift-top coffee tables feature a mechanism for raising the table top. There are also coffee tables with adjustable legs so you can raise the table to make it the correct height for dining.

Drop-leaf Tables

Drop-leaf tables are old standbys that can be used as sofa tables or console tables as well as dining tables. When folded down, they can be quite narrow and take up very little space. Not only do they make excellent sofa tables, but they can also be placed unobtrusively under a window or against a wall and serve as a console table. When opened they can seat up to six or more people. Choose chairs that can function as both dining chairs and living room chairs; position them around the room and then pull them up to the dining table when needed.

Higher-than-standard Coffee Tables

Many interior designers today use higher-than-standard coffee tables to double as dining tables. The standard height for a coffee table is 16 to 18 inches. But according to Luciana Samu, a designer in Saratoga, New York, 23 inches is a great height for a coffee table that can double as a dining table. Living room seating, including sofas and love seats, can become dining room seating around the higher-than-standard coffee table. In his book, "Emotional Rooms," top interior designer Benjamin Noriega-Ortiz blends living and dining spaces by using higher-than-standard coffee tables.

How to Build a Fake Top for a Kitchen Table

Creating a fake top for an existing kitchen table allows the table to be used in a variety of ways, such as seating more people than it was originally intended to or accommodating a change in style. A new kitchen table top that sits on top of the existing table is more cost effective than replacing the table with a new one. A removable fake table top can provide protection from damage or it can hide existing damage when company comes to visit. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Construction

1

Measure the size of the existing table and determine the size of the new table top. Take into consideration the base that supports the table top when deciding on the size of the new top. Avoid enlarging the table top by more than an inch on each side for a table with a single center support system.

2

Cut the 2-by-4s into the appropriate length to create a wooden box the size of the finished fake kitchen table top. Label each piece. Make sure to leave enough room for the new top to slide over the top of the existing table top.

3

Assemble the box frame for the new kitchen table top by screwing the left side of the table top to the front of the table top. Move to the right side and screw it to the bottom side. Complete the box by screwing these two L shapes together.

4




For heavy stone table tops, consider doubling the layer of plywood for stability.

Cut the plywood to fit the top of the box and attach it by screwing through the plywood and into the frame.

5




Paint or stain the table top to match or contrast with the existing structure.

Paint or stain the sides of frame.

Finish

6

Paint or stain quarter round and allow it to dry.

7

Secure the quarter round to the edge of the table top using finishing nails. Counter sink the finishing nails and fill the holes with spackle. Touch up the paint or stain as needed.

8




Be creative with design and style before adhering the tile in place.

Decide on a pattern for the tile or stone selected for the table top. Dry fit the pieces into shape until a final design is determined.

9

Apply a small amount of thin set and begin placing the tile or stone according to the predetermined pattern. Continue until the plywood is completely covered from view. Allow the thin set to dry according to manufacturer's directions.

10




Keep the sponge clean with regular rinsing in fresh water.

Spread the grout over the top of the tile or stone. Use a generous amount and with the trowel, force the grout to fill all gaps between the tile or stone. Wipe away the excess grout with a damp sponge.

How to Make a Kitchen Table Look Like Marble

Making your kitchen table look like it has a marble surface is accomplished with a faux marble painting technique. Marble surfaces are expensive, but painting a finish on the wood table surface lets you copy the look of marble without paying the high cost. It is important to let each layer of paint and the sealer dry for the recommended time to get the best results with table surface. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Set the table on top of a large drop cloth to protect the floor from accidental spills or splatters of paint.

2

Wash the surface of the table with a mild dish soap and water. Wipe all soap residue off the surface and dry the surface with a clean towel. Let the table dry completely before painting it with a marble finish.

3

Roughen the surface of the table by rubbing it with a piece of 150-grit sandpaper. Avoid using a power sander to prevent grinding off too much of the surface. Wipe the table with a clean, damp rag or paper towel to remove all sanding dust.

4

Paint the surface of the table with a flash bond primer and let it dry for at least six hours. Apply a second coat of the primer and let it dry for at least six hours or overnight.

5

Paint the primer layer with a neutral color of satin enamel. Choose the tone that matches the colors in your kitchen, usually a gray or beige tone. Let the table dry for at least two days, and then apply a second coat of satin enamel. Let the table dry for another two days to verify the enamel is dry.

6

Paint a faux granite finish on top of the enamel by choosing two paint colors that complement each other. Sponge paint the first color onto the table with a gentle dabbing motion. Let the table dry for at least 24 hours and then sponge paint the second marble color onto the surface. Let the table dry for at least 24 hours after painting the marble finish.

7

Apply a clear acrylic sealer to the table surface after the marble finish is to your liking. Let the table dry for at least four days to guarantee the sealer is completely dry before using the table.

How to Make a Folding Coffee Table

A folding coffee table is a great way to have table space when you need it while retaining the option of extra floor space by folding it away. A simple wooden coffee table is easy to construct and folding legs can allow you to stash it away--perhaps behind the couch--when you don't need it. Start with good quality wood and hardware for the sturdiest table possible. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Cut the 2 by 2-inch lumber into two 5-foot-8-inch pieces, two 17-inch pieces and four 16-inch pieces with a hand or power saw. The 16-inch pieces will be the legs, so if you want a taller or shorter table, adjust their length.

2

Form a rectangle with the 5-foot-8-inch lengths for the top and bottom and the 17-inch pieces for the sides, with total outside dimensions of 5-foot-8 by 20 inches (2 by 2 lumber is actually 1 1/2 by 1 1/2).

3

Screw this rectangle together by drilling a 1/8-inch hole for each screw to avoid splitting the wood, then driving screws in with a Phillips head bit on your drill or power driver.

4

Lay a 2 by 6-foot piece of plywood over the top of your rectangle so there is 2 inches of overhang on each side. Screw the plywood onto the frame securely, then flip the tabletop over so your frame pieces face up.

5

Place one leg in each corner, inside the frame, leaving about 1/2 inch of space between the leg and the short end of the frame to allow it to swing closed easily. Using 1/2-inch wood screws, attach a hinge on the side of each leg that faces toward the center of the table's long side. All four legs should be able to fold inward without overlapping.

6

Fold the legs out into their open positions and align a sliding bolt lock (the metal locks often used on bathroom stall doors) along the long side of the frame so the bolt will slide into the leg when it is locked. Mark where the bolt will hit the leg, then remove the lock and drill a hole for it. Discard the loop the bolt would slide into if you were locking two surfaces on the same plane. Attach the lock to the wood using the screws that came with it. When you want to use the table, unfold the legs and slide the bolts into place to keep the legs open.

7

Sand any rough edges and paint the table as desired.

How to Use Tables Instead of Desks in a Classroom

The layout of a classroom is an important tool for teachers to use to their advantage. It is important to ensure that all of the students can see the board and that the teacher can keep an eye on all of the students. However, this does not mean that the teacher must use the traditional school layout of desks positioned in rows. Teachers have been getting more creative, sometimes using tables instead of desks to create their classroom layout.

Instructions

1

Position the tables in a formation that allows all students to be able to clearly see you and the board. Rows of tables parallel to the front or in a U-shape work well. Smaller tables that allow students to sit in groups can also be used.

2

Place chairs only on one side of the table unless you are using smaller tables for groups. Position the chairs so each student has ample room to work and the cheating temptation is low. A 6- or 8-foot banquet-sized table should be able to seat three to four students, depending on their size.

3

Organize a seating arrangement so students will interact well without getting into trouble. Avoid placing talkative students immediately next to each other or students that may tease each other or cause other problems.

4

Split tables up for group activities if you are not already using smaller tables to create groups. One of the benefits of using tables instead of desks is the ability to easily move the tables around.

How to Design With Room Dividers

A room divider is the classic answer to many decorating problems. Whether you have a large room you want to break up visually or just want to add color to a wall area, dividers may be used multiple ways to suit virtually any style. Choose the setup that you prefer and change things up as frequently as you want. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Place a room divider to act as a wall in the middle of a large room to break the space up into two areas. Arrange your furniture in each area as though the divider were a wall; for example, put the back of a couch against the divider or set a TV facing out from it.

2

Dress up a dull or unattractive wall space or corner by setting the divider just in front of the wall. Place chairs, small tables or other furnishings in front of the divider to make it look like a decorating choice for style rather than a coverup.

3

Place the divider near a corner of your bedroom to create a private dressing area. This could be a small-enough space just for changing clothes, or large enough to fit a small vanity and stool behind for fully getting dressed and ready to leave the home.

4

Divide the areas of a kids bedroom to partition off a homework desk from toys or the bed. Likewise, use the divider in shared kids' rooms between beds to provide privacy for sleeping or reading.

5

Create a colorful or stylish backdrop to a seating arrangement by setting a room divider directly behind a set of chairs or a couch.

6

Set two identical dividers across from one another in a large room to form a hallway of sorts. Arrange the decorations on the outside of the dividers as though they were small rooms and leave the gap between the dividers clean and open.

7

Separate L-shaped rooms by placing the divider at the point where the room transitions from one function to another, such as a living room/dining room or kitchen/dining room area. The divider can also block off a home office area from the living room.

DIY Folding Wall Table

A wall-mounted folding table saves space in a small room. The table is there when you need it, and folds out of the way when you don't. Most wall-mounted folding tables use a hinged bracket to raise and lower a wooden table top that folds against the wall when not in use. The trouble with this, especially in a room where every square foot counts, is you're left with unusable space and a piece of wood floating against your wall. Preserve valuable wall space with a table design, adapted from a Family Handyman magazine online workbench plan, that, when not in use, becomes a ledge that can be used to display art or hold other small items. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Cut your 2-by-4s into four pieces with your circular saw--two 28 inches, one 30 inches and the other 26 inches. Lay the pieces out in a square (on the 2-inch edges) so the two 28-inch pieces are opposite, the 30-inch piece is positioned across their the tops and the 26-inch piece is between the 28-inch pieces about 2 inches up from their ends. Mark where the pieces meet, drill and screw together each piece with two 4-inch screws.

2

Lay the continuous hinge--sometimes called a piano hinge--along the 2-inch edge of the 30-inch 2-by-4 at the top of the box. The straight edge, opposite the hinged joint, should be flush with the top of the 2-inch edge. Screw it into place along the length of the top with the screws that came with the hinge.

3

Stand up your box against the wall where you want the table. The 2-inch legs of the box should be at the bottom. When it is in its final location, draw a line in pencil on the wall against the bottom edge of the 2-by-4 at the top of the box. Set the box aside.

4

Cut the 2-by-2 lumber into two 26-inch pieces. Drill at least three holes evenly across the length of each of the 2-by-2s. Line up the top edge of the upper 2-by-2, and the bottom edge of the lower piece, along the pencil line on the wall. Transfer the holes to the wall with a pencil and install your wall anchors at those points according to their package instructions. Attach the 2-by-2s to the wall using the screws that came with the wall anchors.

5

Put the box back in place (with the hinge facing out), so it rests on the upper 2-by-2. Fasten the box to the wall by screwing it into the 2-by-2 cleats with 4-inch wood screws.

6

Lay the plywood on the floor with the "bad" side (if any) up. Put one pipe flange 3 inches in from each corner on one of the 30-inch sides. Fasten them to the plywood with four 1/2-inch wood screws each. Put the rubber feet on the non-threaded ends of the pipes.

7

Open up the hinge. Stand up the piece of plywood so it is against the box. The end with the flanges should be against the floor and the flanges should be facing the box and not visible. Line the plywood up with the hinge, propping it up on scrap wood if necessary. Screw the other side of the hinge into the edge of the plywood. The plywood should lay flush against the box. Attach hook-and-eye hardware near the bottom outside edges on each side to keep the box securely closed when not in use.

8

Raise the plywood and screw the pipes into the flanges. These are your table legs. When you're done with the table, unscrew the legs and stow them diagonally inside the box. Shut the lid and fasten with the hook-and-eye closures.

How to Make a Folding Wooden Table

Whether it is for a poker game, a yard sale, arts and crafts or a computer table--almost anyone could use a small wooden table in the house. Building your own table can be a little challenging, but it will possibly save you money in the long run. Anyone can do this project, it just takes a few supplies and a little effort. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Saw two 18-inch sections off the 1-inch-by-6-inch wood and then cut them both in half. The four pieces will make up the top of the table.
Cut off four 16-inch-by-1 1/2-inch sections for the legs and one 16-inch-by-2 1/2-inch section for the stretcher.
Saw off two 10-inch-by-1 3/4-inch pieces for the leg supports and cut two 10-inch-by-1 1/4-inch pieces for the small stretchers.

2

Sand the wooden sections on all sides and place them flat with the good side down. Use the table saw to square off the four pieces on the ends. Make 1/4-inch spaces in between the boards.
Attach the support boards underneath the table top. Use two screws to attach the middle board and one screw each in the outer boards.
The outer edge of the outside boards should be 16 inches apart from each other and 1 inch from the edges.
The middle support board should have one edge that lines up with the center of the table top.

3

Connect the wide legs and stretchers using an overlap joint. Lay one board on top of the other at right angles and screw them together. The wide legs should be 13 inches apart and attach the stretcher 1 1/4 inches from the top of the legs.
The narrow legs should be 7 inches apart. Attach the top stretcher at the top of the legs and the lower stretcher 3 7/8 inches from the top.
Cut a notch 3/4 inches wide and 3/16 inches deep in the middle of the top stretcher and a notch 3/4 inches wide and 5/16 inches deep in the bottom center of the lower stretcher.

4

Drill a 1/4-inch hole vertically down through the two stretchers on the narrow legs and down the center of the longer stretcher of the wide legs. Make sure the narrow legs fit in the spots before you glue them in.

5

Attach the legs after the glue dries and use a 1/4-inch-by-5-inch bolt and nylock nut to keep the pairs of legs together. You may need to use washers for the spaces between the stretchers.
You may have to file the legs to get them to fit flat against the table top; test them first to see if they fit.
Use hinges to attach the outside supports and center the legs on the supports.
Screw in the magnetic catch to the middle table support. This is where it will hold the narrow legs centered on the table.

6

Stain the table to the desired color.

How to Build a Makeup Vanity

A makeup vanity is an essential piece of furniture for the woman on the go. It serves as a central location for all her makeup paraphernalia, as well as manicure and pedicure essentials. After doing a little research to see what the retail market offers, you can create your own design to build a makeup vanity. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Place the four 20-inch and the two 47-inch pieces of plywood on a worktable. Lay the 47-inch pieces adjacent to one another on their long edge. Measure from one end and make a mark at 12 inches and 13 inches. Repeat this from the other end. Place the speed square on the marks and draw a line across the width of both pieces. These are the box parts for the makeup vanity.

2

Apply glue to the tops of the legs where they will meet the inside corners of the assembly from Step 1. Secure them to the assembly with the finish nails. Clean excess glue immediately with a damp cloth.

3

Place the 23-by-47-by--inch plywood on the worktable. Measure from one corner and make a mark at 2 inches. Do the same thing from the perpendicular edge to form a 2-inch square in the corner of the plywood. Repeat this for each of the three remaining corners. Cut the squares with the jigsaw. This is the bottom of the makeup vanity.

4

Apply wood glue to the ends of the 20-inch pieces and secure them to the 47-inch pieces at the ends and the lines drawn in Step 1 with the finish nails. Next, apply glue to the top edges of the plywood and secure -inch plywood to it with the box nails.

5

Place the 25-by-49-by--inch plywood on the worktable. Measure from one end and mark the center (24 inches). Measure from the center mark to the left and the right and make marks at 10 inches. Place the framing square on these marks and draw a line across the width of the plywood. Next, measure from one of the long edges and make several marks at 1 inches.

6

Place the framing square on the marks and draw a line parallel to the 49-inch side of the plywood. Cut the center section (20-by-23 inches) out with the jigsaw. Keep the lines as straight as possible because this piece will become the top that opens with a piano hinge. Install the piano hinge on the 20-inch edge of the piece that was cut out.

7

Turn the assembly from Step 4 over and apply glue to the edges of the plywood. Set the top on the assembly. Be certain it hangs over the makeup vanity 1-inch on all sides. Secure it with the finish nails. Install the 20-by-23-inch piece with the piano hinge on it to the back edge of the top. Cut and fit the flat mold around the edge of the top.

How to Build a Makeup Mirror

When you are doing your makeup, it is important to be able to see yourself in good lighting. This will ensure that your color choices and blending are the best they can be. Many women simply choose to do their makeup in a bathroom, often with a single light creating shadows that make the job harder. Building a simple makeup mirror is not a challenging task, and will allow you to apply cosmetics much more easily. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Select a mirror that you wish to use. It can be as basic or decorative as you like, but it should be large enough that you can easily see your entire head from a distance of 2 feet.

2

Position your makeup table next to a wall with an outlet. Sit down at the table and evaluate the proper placement of your mirror. Your eyes should be centered in the mirror, with half of the mirror above your eyes and half below. Mark your eye level on the wall with a pencil.

3

Hang the mirror on the wall, with the midpoint even with your eye level. If the mirror does not have mounting clips or wire on the back, use mirror mounts available at any hardware store.

4

Cut the female end off of the first extension cord with a utility knife. Discard the female end. Choose a cord color that is close to the color of your walls.

5

Split the end of the extension cord with a utility knife and strip an inch of insulation from both wires.

6

Twist the wires on the extension cable with the wires on one of the vanity light strips. There will be two sets of twisted wires: one for positive and one for negative. It doesn't matter which wire is twisted to which. Cap the both sets of twisted wire with wire connectors.

7

Repeat this process with the second extension cord and vanity light strip.

8

Mount the vanity light strips vertically to either side of the mirror using the included mounting hardware. The cords should go downward out of the light strips and behind the makeup table.

9

Screw light bulbs into the sockets on both strips.

10

Plug both cords into a power strip with an on/off switch, then plug the power strip into the wall. When you turn the power strip on, all of the lights will turn on at the same time.

What Are the Sizes of Folding Tables?

Folding tables, dating back to 1686, according to Colonial Furniture in America, have long served a very useful function in daily lives, right up through today. When a permanent table does not fit within the confines of a room, or a need is only temporary, a folding table fits the bill. Folding tables are available in many shapes and sizes. Does this Spark an idea?

Square Tables

Card tables are often associated with folding tables since families often own one. Traditionally used for just what the name implies, playing cards, it is often set up for a game of four-handed bridge. Card tables are usually 36-inches square by 29-inches high but square folding tables can also be found at 42 inches

Rectangular Tables

Rectangular folding tables vary from a small 24-inch by 48-inch table usually used for crafts to standards of 30 inches by 60 inches, 30 inches by 72 inches and the 30-inch by 96-inch size that is found in cafeterias across the country.

Round Tables

Round folding tables are often used at banquets and range in size from 42 inches to 48 inches as well as 60 inches and normally top out at 72 inches in diameter.

Trapezoid Tables

Trapezoid-shaped tables are available in 24-inch by 24-inch by 48-inch and also 30-inch by 30-inch by 60-inch sizes.

Horseshoe Tables

Horseshoe-shaped folding tables are often used for trade shows and in situations where one person is demonstrating or teaching a technique. They are also used for playing cards where the dealer stands in the cutout of the table. They are available in 48-inch by 72-inch as well as 48-inch by 96-inch and 60-inch by 66-inch sizes.

Octagon Tables

Octagon folding tables are readily found measuring 48 inches and are a good use of space when other shapes will take up too much room.

How to Design a Dressing Table

Getting dressed becomes much more routine with a well-planned dressing table. Create a table that works well in real situations instead of just looking pretty. Appropriate lighting, a good chair and storage near the table are always helpful. A dressing table can work well in a master bedroom, master bathroom or small hallway outside of a bathroom. Create the table to fit in with the room's decor and color scheme. Keep in mind that a mirror is always required for any dressing table as well. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Measure the floor space you will use for the table. Evaluate surrounding space to envision the type of table and color you will design. Plan to buy a sturdy white table to serve as the base, for example. Select a chrome table or oak table as possible choices. Envision both a mirror and chair that will harmonize with the table surface.

2

Plan the chair and table to work well together. Buy the chair when you purchase the table. Build the table to fit certain dimensions and buy a chair that works with the constructed table. Use a chair that is large enough to support the weight of an adult, if an adult will use it. Buy a sturdy French-look dining chair at a furniture store close-out sale, for example. Cover the chair with a brocade slipcover made to fit.

3

Figure out a way to install a mirror by attaching it to the table or wall. Buy a mirror with beveled edges for a more high-quality look. Make sure the mirror frame is all wood or metal, if possible, so it will hold up well over time. Use sturdy hardware to secure the mirror in place. Add lighting beside the mirror or above it, so the dressing area is illuminated properly.

4

Add storage shelves under the dressing table. Store brushes, curling irons or cosmetics in plastic bins on the shelves. Create a fabric skirt for the table that will hide the storage space underneath. Install a small cabinet with doors near the dressing table to store toiletries or cosmetics as well. Make sure you do not have to take a lot of steps to retrieve items needed for getting dressed.

5

Place a hanging peg or two near the table for clothes or a robe. Secure a hanging peg system to wall studs using an electric screwdriver and wood screws. Install pegs that are at least 3 inches long, so you can hang a heavy garment or two, if needed, while you are getting dressed.

How to Make a Folding Camp Kitchen

Planning a camping excursion requires planning and ingenuity, particularly if you're working on a budget. One of the more indispensable pieces of gear for any extended or family camping trip is the folding camp kitchen. Trying to prepare and cook meals in your tent or on the top of your cooler can be difficult and even dangerous. Though they are a popular alternative, a folding camp kitchen is expensive and requires a lot of storage space in your garage when not in use. Instead, try making your own camp kitchen that can be used as a regular table when you're not camping.

Instructions

Camp Kitchen: Table

1

Set up the folding table in a workspace or garage. Affix cup hooks along one long edge of the table. Lay out the tool pouches on the surface of the table, back side up.

2

Adhere one side of the sticky adhesive Velcro strips to the short edges of the table. Stick the other side of the Velcro strip to the back side of each of the tool pouches. Attach the tool pouches to either side of the table.

3

Flip the table over and attach three to five more cup hooks to the underside of the table for additional storage and dish-drying room.

Camp Kitchen: Storage

4

Fold the table and place it along the wall of a garage or other storage space.

5

Place camp kitchen gear in plastic tubs. Use one for items such as pans, plates, silverware and cooking utensils in tall plastic tubs. Use another tub as a dry box for nonperishable foods and spices.

6

Place camping dishes, dish rack, soap, dish towels and sponge in a shallow plastic container that can be used for washing dishes while camping.

Camp Kitchen: Setup

7

Set up the folding table. Unpack pans and cooking utensils from the plastic storage containers. Place the items on the cup hooks around and under the table for easy access. Store smaller items such as silverware, spices, napkins and trash bags in the tool pouches at the ends of the table.

8

Put the lids on the plastic containers and stack them next to the table, with the shallow dish container on the top of the stack. Use this as a dishwashing station after meals, or as an additional preparation area for food.

9

Position tiki torches or solar lights near your kitchen to add visibility.

10

Place your cooler under the table when it is not in use to protect it from the hot sun. Pull the cooler out during kitchen preparation for easy access to your ingredients.

DIY Vanities

Beauty supplies can quickly accumulate, often making it necessary to have a place to organize and store all of your daily needs. Having a vanity allows you to house your cosmetics and hair supplies with ease. Vanities also serve as a place to comfortably apply makeup and attend to other beauty needs you may have. Making your own vanity reflects your personal taste and the project can be completed in a day or two. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Obtain a desk or narrow table. Consider using a desk or table purchased at a thrift store rather than buying a new one. After you've found a vanity, decide what color you would like to paint it so it matches the decor of the room that it will be in. You will need to use sandpaper to prepare the surface before it is painted. Keep in mind that you may have to paint several coats onto your vanity to ensure that the color is opaque enough. Let your vanity dry thoroughly before continuing on to anything else; this may take anywhere from several hours to a full day.

2

Move the vanity to your desired location; usually bedrooms are ideal. Then find a place to put the medium sized desk dresser; putting it under your vanity is usually sufficient. This dresser can serve as a place to hold all of your beauty supplies. It is typically easiest to house your items by type, for example: eye shadows in one drawer, nail polishes in another drawer, etc.

3

Put the mini desk drawers on top of your vanity; these can be filled with jewelry or any additional items that you have. Place your table mirror in the middle of the two mini desk drawer sets for a unified and sophisticated look. Also arrange the desk lamp on your vanity near your mirror, in an area that will provide the best light possible for applying cosmetics.

4

Place the letter holder on your desk if you have any large makeup palettes that you would like to have on your vanity. This way you can easily rummage through your palettes rather than having to look through drawers to get them. Store your makeup brushes in the pencil holder, with the brush end up so they can maintain their shape.

5

Put all of the trays that you have purchased into any additional dresser or desk drawer space that you have on your vanity. These trays are an excellent way to make sure that all of your products stay organized and are easy to find. Once you are satisfied with the layout of your vanity and the way you have stored your products, you are finished. Put a chair or bench in front of your vanity, so you can comfortably get prepared when using your brand new dressing table.

How to Build a Fold-Down Table on a Hinge

Life in a small space requires creative furniture solutions. If you do not have a large dining area or kitchen, a table that mounts to the wall and folds down, when you need to use it, is ideal. When you need the space in the room, fold the table up. A fold-down table also works in a laundry area. Waterproof the wood and attach the table to an outside wall for a fold-down picnic table. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Take a stud finder and locate the studs in the wall where you want to mount the table. Mark where the studs are with a pencil.

2

Position two hinged shelf brackets against the wall on top of the studs. Space the brackets 2 feet apart or as evenly as possible. Use a level to make sure the top of the brackets are even; otherwise, you'll end up with a crooked table top.

3

Locate the four holes on the vertical part of each hinged bracket. Mark where each hole is on the wall with the pencil.

4

Drill a hole at each mark. The hole should be as wide as the wall anchors you are using. Push an anchor into each hole.

5

Reposition the brackets against the wall and line up the holes of the brackets with the holes in the wall. Attach a screwdriver bit to the drill then secure the hinged brackets to the wall with 2-inch screws.

6

Set a wood countertop on the horizontal portion of the hinged brackets. Center the counter so that it hangs evenly from the brackets.

7

Attach the countertop to the hinges with four 1-inch screws into the holes on the horizontal side of each bracket.

8

Push on the lever on the underside of the hinged brackets to flatten the table against the wall.

How to Build a Vanity Area in a Dressing Room

Creating space for one or two sinks in a dressing room can speed up getting dressed. A vanity area with a large mirror can facilitate using cosmetics, brushing your teeth and sharing the space with your partner. Being able to take care of fixing hair, grooming in general and checking your outfit in the vanity mirror means fewer physical steps during the dressing process. A good quality vanity cabinet and plumbing fixtures should give an upscale look and feel to the dressing space. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Designate a side or end wall in a dressing room for the vanity area. Before you choose the wall, think about the plumbing and electrical needs involved. Consider how water lines and drains can be routed into the space. Run the plumbing through the floor, down through a closet from the attic, or bring it into the area from a nearby bathroom, for example. Try to place the vanity away from where clothes will be hung for dressing, so splashing water won't be a problem. Have the plumbing and electrical connections in place before you start on the cabinet itself.

2

Secure furring strips to the wall framing to attach the vanity cabinet with screws. Nail the furring strips to studs, but use screws to attach the vanity to the furring strips in case the vanity will ever need to be moved. Use an electric screwdriver to make the job easier, and be sure to use a carpenter's level to install the cabinetry properly.

3

Above the vanity, install mirror tiles or a large one-piece mirror by gluing it to the wall or adding clips to be screwed into wall framing. Make sure the mirror is firmly attached to the wall, since it would be dangerous if it pulled loose. Install electric light fixtures above the mirror or on each side. Use small chandelier-type fixtures to add elegance to the space.

4

Install sinks with high-quality faucet components in the counter space of the vanity. Secure vanity cabinet doors with an electric screwdriver and stainless steel screws. Add a towel bar at each end of the vanity, if there is room between the vanity and the end wall.

How to Extend Folding Table Legs

Folding tables, while not as heavy or as high quality as traditional tables, offer numerous advantages to consumers. Among the most beneficial is that they fold away for easy storage when not in use. They are lightweight and not nearly as expensive as other tables. Commonly used as card tables, patio tables and quick serving tables, they serve their purpose. When using a folding table, it is essential to extend the folding legs properly and completely so the table functions correctly. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Lay the folded table face down on the ground.

2

Pull up on each table leg to extend it upward. Pull the leg as far as it will go so that it locks into place. If the table has a locking mechanism on the leg, move it to the "lock" position.

3

Turn the table upright and check it for steadiness.

Turning a Dresser Into a Bathroom Sink & Vanity

Antique dressers or dressing tables make lovely statement vanities and add old-world charm to a bathroom. Converting a dresser into a bathroom vanity is simple, with the main additions being the sink and, of course, a couple of coats of waterproofing lacquer. New dressing tables in modern styles convert just as easily if an antique dresser is not up your alley. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Place a vessel sink and faucet on top of the dressing table, in the position you want them to be. A vessel sink is designed to sit on top of the vanity like a large bowl rather than recessed into the vanity counter.

2

Pencil in the position of the drain of the sink and faucet where they will be attached to the dresser and remove them for the time being.

3

Measure the diameter of the sinks drain. Attach a hole saw bit the size of the drain to a drill and drill a hole in the top of the dressing table at the place you marked with pencil. If the dresser has a drawer directly under where the sink goes, remove it before drilling. Repeat with the faucet, so you have the drain hole and faucet hole in the dressing table top.

4

Measure the position where the plumbing pipes will attach to the sink and faucet at the back of the dresser and cut holes in the back the appropriate size, as you did for the drain and faucet holes. If the dresser doesnt have a back and is more like a table or has drawers on the side with the middle section free, this is unnecessary.

5

Sand the dressing table lightly with 220-grit sandpaper and wipe over with a rag. Apply a coat of lacquer to the dressing table and let dry. Apply a further two coats of lacquer after waiting the drying time specified by the manufacturer. This will waterproof the dresser.

6

Position the sink over the drain hole, ensuring the drain and the drain hole match up. Pencil in around the base of the sink so the area between the pencil line and the drain hole will be the adhesive contact area.

7

Spread silicone adhesive on the dressing table inside the pencil lines around the drain hole. Carefully lower the sink onto the dresser, matching up the drain with the drain hole. Press down lightly on the sink to ensure maximum contact with the adhesive.

8

Install the faucet into the faucet holes. This typically requires fitting the faucet into the hole cut for it. Use silicone adhesive or plumbers putty to seal it in place, tightening the faucet washers and nuts on the underside of the dresser top. Read the faucet instructions carefully for detailed information on installing your particular model. The dressing table vanity is now ready for installation in the bathroom.

Dressing Table Styles

Of all the furnishings in a woman's bedroom, the dressing table may be the most luxurious and desirable item. Sometimes called a vanity or a make-up table, these mirrored pieces of furniture serve as the place that is well-lighted for make-up application, have storage space for personal items, and may function as a decorative accent, especially when adorned with photographs, perfume bottles, flowers and keepsakes. A dressing table can serve as an island of femininity in a shared household. Does this Spark an idea?

Simple Dressing Tables

The least elaborate dressing tables may be simple rectangles with four legs, with or without drawers. Like all dressing table, it must be equipped with a mirror built onto the table or hung at a convenient height over the table. These styles are made from wood, painted or natural in color, metal and glass, and wood and wicker combinations, and may be accompanied with a matching stool.

The Desk Style

Many dressing tables or vanity tables look very much like wood desks. Below the rectangular top, the table is equipped with either one bank of drawers and one row of legs or two banks of drawers. The space for a stool or chair is centered. Mirrors may be attached or hung above the table; most are simply framed with materials similar to the table. A few of these styles are designed with lift tops where the mirror is revealed when the top is lifted, and the space below is intended for storage.

The Kidney-shaped Table

One of the most popular traditional styles of dressing table is the kidney-shaped table, an oval with a curved indentation in the center front. This variety may have drawers under the tabletop, may have a skirt attached to adjustable wings on either side of the center, and may include a pretty matching stool.

Other Details

Because the dressing table is a feminine accent in many homes, its styles have tended to vary from standard bedroom furniture. Some varieties have shapely curved legs, as in the Queen Anne style or the elaborate French styles. These often have mirrors with ornate frames. The table itself may be made of wicker, glass, mirrored glass, and fanciful painted wood. The shabby chic look of battered elegance has long remained popular for dressing tables, and a pastel painted table equipped with tiny cubbyholes and drawers might be the most feminine of all.

How to Make a Vanity Stool

A vanity is an excellent piece that can enhance any area for getting ready each day. The vanity offers storage for the items needed to get ready, the mirror to aid in applying products and styles to yourself, and the seating area for comfort. While the vanity stool may be seen as an afterthought, it is a very important part of this area. Buying a stool can be costly, but if you make it yourself, you can save a reasonable amount of money as well as put your own design into it.

Instructions

1




Pick out the type of wood you would like to make your stool from. If it is going to be stained, a poplar or walnut wood would look nice, but if you plan to paint it, you can use medium-density fiberboard (MDF), plywood, pine or any other type of wood. Also pick out the style of table legs you would like your stool to have, bearing in mind that these will be cut to 17 inches or, for a higher seat, can go up to 24 inches.

2




Cut the seat to size. If you can make it out of a solid wood piece, that will work best, but if not, it can be glued up and then planed to be smooth and even. The seat should be 17 inches by 21 inches. If you are gluing pieces together, first make sure all edges on the sides that will be glued are square. Place wood glue on the edges and place the boards together. Once they are even, clamp them together and allow them to dry. Then plane the top edge until even and cut off any excess on the edges to square off the piece.

3




Use the router to round off the edges of the seat. Clamp down the board and line up the router against the board, cutting each edge. Be sure to use even strokes to make a finished edge.

4

Cut the side aprons, which will be two pieces 16 inches long and two that are 20 inches long. They should be 3 or 4 inches wide and 1 inch thick. If you would like any design cut into them, you can use the router to curve off the edges, or do a scroll work on the inside panel of the apron.

5

Use the table saw to cut the edges of the aprons at a 45-degree angle. These will then be matched up to form a picture-frame look. Place wood glue on the cut edges and clamp them together, and then let them dry. Use nails or screws as additional support going through both boards at each corner.

6

Attach a 1-by-4 wood piece to the inside of the apron. Use wood glue on the side and line it up to the side of the apron. Place it inch down from the upper edge of the apron. Clamp it and allow it to dry. Use nails through the side of the support board into the apron for additional support.

7

Connect the top of the stool to the aprons. Use the wood glue along the entire top edge of the apron rectangle. Place the top centered onto the apron rectangle. From the bottom, screw into the support boards and into the top until tight.

8

Make the support beams for inside the stool. These will be placed on each corner. Measure the inside corner to confirm the length needed; it should be approximately 8 inches. On each end, cut the edges at a 45-degree angle on the table saw. These edges will line up against the aprons of the stool in each corner.

9

Use wood glue along the edges of the 45-degree cuts and place against the aprons. Use nails to secure in place.

10

Place the cut table legs between the apron and the support beams in each corner. Place wood glue on the end of the table leg and use screws to connect the leg from the inside support beam.

11

Sand the entire piece until smooth. Wipe away any additional dust. Use the wood stain and paint brush with long even strokes, or paint the stool the color of your choice. Apply a second coat for good coverage. Add any additional designs or decorations you wish.

How to Organize a Makeup Table

Keeping makeup organized can simplify the daily beautification ritual and reduce overall time spent in application. By sorting through old, outdated or expired makeup, you can create a makeup cache that only includes the essentials. With a few creative containers and logical groupings, you can create an organized makeup table that looks pleasing and functions better. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Purge unwanted or expired makeup. Toss out any makeup that is over 2 years old. Throw out impulse buys and free samples to lower your overall makeup cache.

2

Sort the remaining makeup. Organize by type, separating brushes, foundations, blushes, lipsticks and eyeshadows into groups. Take a second pass through each group and organize by color.

3

Organize makeup brushes. Fill a shallow, square vase midway with glass gems from a craft store. Wedge your brushes, handles down, into the vase to create an aesthetically pleasing, easily grabbed arrangement.

4

Create a pencil holder. Take an office pencil holder or clean, empty soup can and use a hot glue gun and beads to embellish the outside of the container. Place all eye, lip and brow pencils in the container.

5

Place single eye shadows, arranged by color, into a clear ice cube tray for easy access.

6

Arrange lipsticks by color in a shoebox. Use scissors to cut the excess height off the box. Decorate the box with beads or ribbons using a hot glue gun. Store the lipsticks in it, arranged by shade, upside down, so their labels can be easily read.

7

Outfit a tackle box. Place large items such as moisturizers in the open bottom space. Organize smaller items such as single blushes, tweezers and facial highlighters in the upper compartments. Decorate the outside of the tackle box to your liking.

8

Attach easily lost items, such as lip balms or glosses, onto a small magnetic board. Cut and adhere magnetic tape to items you tend to lose and place them on the metal sheet upon your makeup table.

9

Store full makeup palettes in mini CD towers. Slide an eyeshadow or blush palette into the space for a single CD, to keep all your palettes in one place.

10

Place longer or plentiful items in a silverware tray or small basket. Arrange makeup removers or sunblocks neatly in a small basket. Use the natural divisions to separate cotton balls from sponges and foundation bottles.

How to Build a Folding Table Out of Plywood

A folding table can be useful in many situations such as when you are having a dinner party, a barbeque or need a surface for crafts or hobbies. When you don't need it, you can fold the table away and it takes up very little space. Making your own folding table is easy and a lot cheaper than buying one from a shop. Making it yourself also means you can make the table to your specifications.

Instructions

1

Sand the entire plywood board using a fine grade of sandpaper. This will smooth any rough edges, remove any splinters and improve the finish on the table.

2

Lay out the folding legs on the underside of the table to ensure they will not clash when folded away. Purchase these folding legs at any hardware store or online for less than $30.

3

Screw on the legs through the pre-fabricated holes using the electric drill. As you are using screws, there is no need to pre-drill any guide holes. And as the holes are prefabricated, there is no need to measure and mark with a pencil.

4

Apply a finish of either varnish or paint using a paintbrush. If you are painting it, you will first need to apply a primer to help it bind to the plywood. Leave the primer to dry for 24 hours before applying the paint.

5

Apply a second coat or use the table only after allowing the finish to dry for at least 24 hours.

Folding Table Parts

The design of a folding table allows for easy portability and storage options. Merchants sell folding tables in rectangular, square and round styles that have either resin or wooden tabletops in a variety of standard sizes. Folding tables often have legs with hinged locking devices and end caps, these parts provide additional stability to the tabletop. Does this Spark an idea?

Tabletop

A folding table may have a resin or plastic top or it may be wooden. There can be a split in the center of the tabletop to allow for folding it or it may be solid. Standard rectangular sizes are 6 feet by 30 inches or 8 feet by 30 inches and 4 feet by 24 inches. Round folding tables are available in 24, 36, 48 and 72 inch diameters.

Frame

The frame on a folding table is generally steel or an alloy material. It supports the tabletop by its placement around the underside of the table's circumference.

Legs

The folding table's legs attach to the table with mounting brackets and screws on each short end of a rectangular folding table or on two sides across from each other on a round table. The legs are generally steel or metal and contain a support bracket that is at a 45-degree angle to the table. The support bracket holds the legs out in a vertical line so that they do not fold in while in use. There is a hinged locking device located on the support bracket. Depressing the hinge will release the legs so they can fold inward and flush with the tabletop for easy transporting and storage.

End Caps

The bottoms of a folding table's legs have end caps to protect your floors from scratches. They fit on the bottom of the legs so that the metal tubing is not exposed. End caps also help to stabilize a table on slick floors so that the table does not slide. The end caps are also a safety factor so that when a table is folded you don't get scratches on your arms from the metal while carrying it.

Carrying Handle

Some smaller models of folding tables have a carrying handle. These seamed top types allow the top and legs to fold also. When all of the parts of this table are folded it creates a "suitcase" with a latch to hold all the parts in place and a handle that pulls out for easy carrying.

How to Make a Folding Picnic Table

Folding picnic tables can take several forms. Among the references and resources listed for this article, you'll find a how-to video and building plans for an elaborate pair of benches that can be united to form a folding picnic table. For the less industrious there are plans for smaller tables, too, but for the backyard entertainer who wants a simple folding picnic table that is inexpensive and easy to stow away, the trestle-top picnic table is the way to go.

Why a trestle top? For one, you don't want benches attached to the table like a conventional picnic table design. Have you ever watched someone laden with a paper plate full of picnic fare try to crawl over one of those fixed-in-place benches and sit down? It is better to arrange chairs around the table or provide portable benches that can be moved back and forth as picnickers come and go. Also, attached benches limit the alternative use of the table--as a buffet table, for example. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Build the table top out of one-inch by six-inch pine boards. Buy the straightest, least warped ones your lumber yard has to offer, but realize you'll be able to overcome slight warp-ages when it comes to gluing and clamping the boards together. Run the boards through a planer, if necessary, to attain even thickness and cut them to a uniform length. Lay them on a flat surface and apply wood glue to the joining edges. Use large wood clamps to hold the boards together while the glue dries. Six boards glued edge to edge will make a table top of conventional width.

2

Sand the tabletop smooth using a belt sander.

3

Cut eight two-inch by four-inch table legs to the desired table height and screw them into the sawhorse brackets using wood screws and a cordless screw driver. Trim the bottoms of the table legs using a compound miter saw so the legs stand square on the ground when the sawhorse brackets are extended.

4

Cut two-inch by four-inch boards slightly less long than the tabletop is wide and clamp them in the sawhorse brackets so the brackets with legs extended form four corner legs of the table. The support boards under either end of the tabletop provide lateral support.

5

Position the one-inch by six-inch board top on the four corner legs and supporting end boards. The end result is a quite stable though thoroughly portable picnic table that was not too costly to construct.

6

When the picnic is over, remove the trestle top and end table leg-separating boards, fold up the corner legs and store all for the next picnic use.

How to Build a Bedroom Vanity

Vanities aren't a common piece in bedroom furniture sets, so a homeowner who wants to add one may choose to build one to get what he wants. Matching the wood of the current bedroom set is the highest priority, especially if the furniture is stained. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Place the four pieces of 20-by-29-by- inch plywood (end panels) on a worktable along with the four pieces of 1-by-19- inch plywood (cleats). Apply glue to the 1-inch pieces (cleats), place them on the bottom of the end panels, flush with the front, and secure them with the 2d box nails. Measure from one of the long edges and make four marks up the edge at 3/8 inch. Drill countersink holes on these marks.

2

Apply glue to the end edges of the 48-inch-wide plywood, place it between the two pieces from Step 1 and secure them with the 1-inch drywall screws. Apply glue to the top edges of the three pieces and place the 20-by-49-by- inch plywood on them. Secure it to them with the 4d finish nails. Set the nail heads with the nail set.

3

Turn the bedroom vanity over so the top is face-down. Place one of the four pieces of 19-by-15-by- inch plywood (shelves) on the bottom side of the top and next to the end panel. Draw a line on the bottom of the top using the edge of the shelf as a guide. Place the shelf against the back of the bedroom vanity and draw a line there as well.

4

Place the remaining two end panels on the worktable. Apply glue to one of the short and one of the long edges and place the end panel on the lines. Secure it to the back with the drywall screws. Repeat this for the other end of the bedroom vanity. Place one of the shelves between the two end panels and on the top to help hold it in place while you turn the vanity on its back and secure the end panels to the top with the finish nails.

5

Apply glue to the top of the cleats, place one of the shelves on them and secure it with the finish nails. Repeat this on the other end of the bedroom vanity as well. Measure down from the bottom of the top and make a mark at 6 inches on the end panels. Place the framing square on the marks and draw a line on the inside of the end panels.

6

Apply glue to the three edges of the remaining two shelves and secure them to the bedroom vanity end panels. Turn the vanity upright and secure the shelf to the back with the finish nails. Lay the vanity on its back again.

7

Apply glue to the edges of the end panels, the top and the bottom shelves. Place the two 30-inch 1-by-2s on the outside end panels and place the 46-inch piece between them on the edge of the top. Secure these with the finish nails. Place the 28-inch pieces of the remaining end panels with the 13-inch pieces on the bottom shelf and secure them with the finish nails.

How to Build a Folding Laundry Table

Reduce the back-breaking work of weekly laundry chores with the construction of a handy folding table. Building a folding table is a wise way to expedite the laundry process, providing you with much-needed counter surface. The construction of your table makes it lightweight, so you can transport the device to any area of the house. The table's design also allows for fast and efficient set-up and dismantling. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Slide on a pair of work gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask to protect your skin, eyes and lungs.

2

Place all of your wood pieces onto a work surface: seven 1-inch by 4-inch by 28-inch table top pieces; two 1-inch by 2-inch by 28-inch table braces; two 1-inch by 4-inch by 36-inch wood legs; two 1-inch by 4-inch by 37-inch wood legs; one 1-inch by 4-inch by 20-inch center brace; and two 1-inch by 2-inch by 20-inch center braces.

3

Smooth the surface area of all pieces with 120 grit sand paper.

4

Lay the seven 1-inch by 4-inch by 28-inch table top pieces side by side until they form a 28-inch square. Place one of the 1-inch by 2-inch by 28-inch table braces on top of the square in perpendicular position to the initial seven pieces. Adjust the table brace so it is flush with the left edge. Drill the table brace into place using 3/8-inch wood screws.

5

Place the second 1-inch by 2-inch by 28-inch table brace on top of the square in perpendicular position to the initial seven pieces. Adjust the table brace so it is flush with the right edge. Drill the second table brace into place using 3/8-inch wood screws. The table top is now complete. Set the table top aside for use in later steps.

6

Place the two 1-inch by 4-inch by 36-inch wood legs side by side so they are 20 inches apart. Position the 1-inch by 4-inch by 20-inch center brace between the two legs. Adjust the center brace so it is 5 inches below the top edge of each leg. Secure the center brace into place using 3/8-inch wood screws. The three wood pieces should resemble a capital letter "H" shape.

7

Place the two 1-inch by 4-inch by 37-inch wood legs side by side so they are 20 inches apart. Position the two 1-inch by 2-inch by 20-inch center braces between the two legs. Adjust the first center brace so it is 2 1/2 inches below the top edge of each leg. Adjust the second center brace so it is 9 1/2 inches below the top edge of each leg. Secure the center braces into place using 3/8-inch wood screws.

8

Drill a hole through the center of each of the three center braces using a 1/4-inch bit. Fit the letter "H" shape -- the first set of legs -- between the second set of legs so together they form a letter "X" shape. Insert a 9 1/4-inch steel bolt through the hole of each center brace. Secure the bolt with a 1/4-inch hex nut. The legs are now connected so they will twist.

9

Attach each table top brace to the top edge of the respective 1-inch by 4-inch by 36-inch legs using 1-inch brass hinges.

How to Build a Folding Table in an RV

Making the best use of small spaces is what RV living is all about. One of the best ways to utilize space is to build a folding table. It can give you the counter space you need and then be put aside when not in use.

Instructions

1

Measure the area where you want to put your folding table. The space should include a wall, since your table will fold against it. Transfer your measurements to your plywood, then remark the board, making a square 4 inches smaller all around than your original measurements. This will allow space to get in and out from the table.

2

Cut the square out from the plywood. Sand the edges.

3

Cut the two-by-two so it is 4 inches shorter than the width of your table. Lay your table top on the floor against the wall and mark on the wall where the outside edges of the table are (call this mark "A"). Put another mark where you want the top of your tabletop to be ("B"). Put a third mark 2-3/8 inches below that mark (mark "C").

4

Hold the bottom of the two-by-two so it is level with "C" and its ends are 2 inches inside the outside marks of your tabletop ("A"). Attach the wood to the wall using wood screws and a drill. This is what your table top will rest on.

5

Lay your table top on top of your two-by-two. Make sure you are lined up with "A" and draw a line on the underneath of the table that traces the edge of the two-by-two. Remove the table top and attach one side of the piano hinge to the bottom of the table, using the line you just traced as a guide.

6

Lay the table top back on the two-by-two and attach the other side of the hinge to the two-by-two. Your table top should now be able to fold against the wall.

7

Hold the table top up as if you were going to put it in place and measure down to the floor. Cut a length of two-by-two to match that measurement, and then cut two additional pieces 12 inches long. Attach the two shorter pieces of wood to each end of the longer one so they are flush to its end and it is centered on the cross pieces. It should look like a capital "I" when you are done.

8

Attach one end of your second piano hinge to the side of one of the cross pieces so the hinge part is flush with the top edge. Set the leg underneath the table so the hinge is 4 inches in from the edge of the table. Attach the other side of the hinge to the underside of your table. You now have a folding table in your RV.

9

Cut your Formica to fit the top of your table. Apply epoxy to the table top and the backside of your Formica. When both are tacky, press the epoxy sides together and your table is done.